My son started in a school which is located to the center of the city. Usually my wife is taking and picking him up, but sometimes I need to do it as well. The first time I drove there with my car, it took me an hour to get there and another hour to get back due to the rush hour. I had been thinking about getting an electric scooter for some time already, and now I had the perfect reason to get one!
I decided to get Ninebot G30D II which is produced by Segway. It has a very sturdy frame and rides like a dream, but it doesn’t have any indicators and the speed is limited to 20km/h due to the local legislation. I decide to fix some of the things that I think needed improvements.
This is how it ended up looking.I began by printing a holder for the lock, and a hook for the helmet or a bag. The hook has a hidden airtag behind it so I can always track where the scooter is.I also purchased a bicycle alarm. It didn’t have a bracket that fit the scooter’s frame, so I designed one.I used one side of the bracket that came with the alarm, and modelled a replacement part for the other side.The scooter’s frame has a special shape, but the bracket fits now perfectly. Looks like it was made for this!I also added a phone holder so I can easily see the navigation on it.Next I decided to add indicators. Those required more work.To route the cables I needed to drill a hole to the frame. This shouldn’t be a problem due to the location.The indicators will as an extension to the channel located to the side of the frame.Indicator in place.The indicators had also a light pointing down to the ground with the logo of the manufacturer. I don’t do free advertising, so I dissembled the indicators and removed the logo from the lens. Maybe I add something funky here later, but for now it is just a round white light.Some cabling was required.New connectors. I added a new bracket with the buttons for the indicators. It also has button for the light pointing to the ground, and a button for a non-existing horn. I can use that extra button for something in the future?All the cable routings were cleaned up.Also at the bottom of the frame.I also added a custom step board with this awesome logo! It’s much more comfortable to stand on with the extra width. Indicators in action.The light pointing to the ground (with missing logo).This is how it looks in the dark.
Beside the changes described above, the scooter is now also running a custom firmware. I will not go into detail how that was done as it makes it illegal. It was not a simple procedure as I needed to program the speed controller with an in-circuit programmer, and I doubt that there are many people who would be doing that on a whim.
I made a “stock” profile which keeps the legal speed limits, but the scooter is also able to reach a top speed of 40km/h with a “power” profile. That is of course only used on closed track. 😬
Overall I’m very happy with the modifications. It was an amazing scooter from the start, but now it is simply incredible.
Meantime I received the kit and successfully mounted it.
Btw, great tip on lens disassembling, I got rid too of the monorim logo.
About the y-cable splitter from the battery, they (Monorim) did actually provide in the kit a 18 awg splitter, which is IMO wrong.
So I ended up buying a 12 awg xt60 splitter for a few bucks.
Your suggested method works for sure, but I dont have here now a 100% sure proper (temperature wise) insulation material, so ok with the new splitter.
The bad thing about their provided 18 awg splitter is that with a stock firmware and regen brake active setting, or with a modified firmware (or 48v upgraded battery), for sure in the long run this would cause problems, not to talk about added resistance.
On the good side, they added now in the kit a short extension of the cable arriving from the handlebar, so I had not to solder the extension like you had to do.
I also added some clear silicone padding on the 2 drilled holes and on the 2 back mounted indicators edges (-> there are small leaks where they attach to the chassis), I’d prefer to not have weak points in the IP-something scooter’s performance.
I just bought the current monorim lr01 kit (I have a g30d ii too), but I am scared on their y-cable bringing the +/- battery’s voltage to the white “blinking” controller.
Scared because of the seemingly too thin wires thickness and added length, vs the stock wires coming from the battery to the g30 controller.
So, here’s the question:
from where did you take the +/- 36 Volts in your cables re-arrangement?
P.S. I too successfully downgraded the firmware so to use shfw, I use it to just get rid when I can of the 20 km/h eu capping, and did config via shfw app so that no more than 25 A is flowing normally (I used conservative settings), but, the same, I dont want to add a weak element on the 36 Volts flow from the battery.
Hi there,
If I don’t remember completely wrong, I made a new thicker gauge splitter for it. I’ve been building a lot of model airplanes in my past, so I had the stuff already in the workshop.
Considering how little amperage the module requires, you can also just leech the power from the original cables with some small gauge wire. (Cut small part of the insulation, solder the smaller wire in, and re-insulate)
3 Comments
Paolo
September 6, 2025 at 06:10Thanks for the suggestion!
Meantime I received the kit and successfully mounted it.
Btw, great tip on lens disassembling, I got rid too of the monorim logo.
About the y-cable splitter from the battery, they (Monorim) did actually provide in the kit a 18 awg splitter, which is IMO wrong.
So I ended up buying a 12 awg xt60 splitter for a few bucks.
Your suggested method works for sure, but I dont have here now a 100% sure proper (temperature wise) insulation material, so ok with the new splitter.
The bad thing about their provided 18 awg splitter is that with a stock firmware and regen brake active setting, or with a modified firmware (or 48v upgraded battery), for sure in the long run this would cause problems, not to talk about added resistance.
On the good side, they added now in the kit a short extension of the cable arriving from the handlebar, so I had not to solder the extension like you had to do.
I also added some clear silicone padding on the 2 drilled holes and on the 2 back mounted indicators edges (-> there are small leaks where they attach to the chassis), I’d prefer to not have weak points in the IP-something scooter’s performance.
Paolo
August 29, 2025 at 15:20Great job on your g30d ii.
I just bought the current monorim lr01 kit (I have a g30d ii too), but I am scared on their y-cable bringing the +/- battery’s voltage to the white “blinking” controller.
Scared because of the seemingly too thin wires thickness and added length, vs the stock wires coming from the battery to the g30 controller.
So, here’s the question:
from where did you take the +/- 36 Volts in your cables re-arrangement?
P.S. I too successfully downgraded the firmware so to use shfw, I use it to just get rid when I can of the 20 km/h eu capping, and did config via shfw app so that no more than 25 A is flowing normally (I used conservative settings), but, the same, I dont want to add a weak element on the 36 Volts flow from the battery.
Many thanks!
Silfer
September 4, 2025 at 22:21Hi there,
If I don’t remember completely wrong, I made a new thicker gauge splitter for it. I’ve been building a lot of model airplanes in my past, so I had the stuff already in the workshop.
Considering how little amperage the module requires, you can also just leech the power from the original cables with some small gauge wire. (Cut small part of the insulation, solder the smaller wire in, and re-insulate)