Bandolier -style crossbody bag

After making my first leather project, the unnecessary case for my AirPods, I decided that it was time to go big! I’m not a big fan of carrying all my stuff in my pockets, so I often carry a crossbody fanny bag where I can keep my wallet, keys, phone, and so on. I thought it would be cool to make a new bag myself as then it can be exactly as I want!

I wanted it to be heavy duty and with multiple pockets so I don’t have to dig around to find my things. I used the same wet forming + vacuum method that I tested earlier, and made it out of 4mm (10 oz) thick bridle leather as that is extremely strong (and what I had loads of!) with 2.5mm thick extra strong polypropylen webbing strap with leather details. For the design I chose a bandolier style that has three pockets, and for the hardware I used antique brass.

To be totally honest, it turned out much better than I would have dared to hope for. I can’t believe that I made this awesome bag with minimal leatherworking experience!

My awesome new bag. I’m very happy with the result.
The great thing about crossbody bags is that it’s easy to wear them both on the front and the back.

Build Log:

It all began with a 3D modelled and printed vacuum form in three parts.
I used 15% infill with extra thick walls for rigidity.
The holes were added to make it easier to vacuum the air out of the form.
Our old baby bath was perfect for wetting the leather.
It took some massaging, but I managed to get the leather to the right shape over the form.
It didn’t end up perfect and had some wrinkles here and there, but I don’t think I could have made it better with the thick leather.
While the vacuum formed leather was drying, I began working on the strap.
I skived the leather for it to be thinner…
… cut the shape and bevelled the edges…
… and slicked the edges to nice finish + added holes for rivets.
After gluing and riveting the pieces to heavy duty polypropylen webbing, I had a simple but stylish strap for the bag.
At this point the leather was dry and I could cut the basic shape on it. I decided that the yellow thread in 0.9mm thick waxed polyester would suit bag well.
Before continuing with the bag, I had to make use of my new maker’s mark stamp. I cut a circular shape with my fly press…
… and pressed the maker’s mark on it.
After bevelling the edges, cutting a stitching groove, and punching stitching holes the logo was ready to be put on the front of the bag.
I also added some “localised” antique to enhance the details on it.
The bag needs both front and back, so I used CAD (Cardboard Aided Design) to design the back and lids.
I hope that this will work. I can’t cut it too close yet, so I’m only focusing on the shape of the top. The bottom is cut out when I get further with making the bag.
The shape is cut out from similar leather as the rest of the bag.
I used a screwdriver to punch the holes for the clasps.
Antique brass clasps added.
The clasps are mounted with a metal retainer on the back.
As I’m not planning to add lining to this bag, I’ll cover the backs of the clasps with 1.5mm thick leather. Now my stuff shouldn’t get scratched.
I hope that contact cement is enough to keep these in place.
Now I know where to place the maker’s mark. It’s first glued…
… and then stitched in place.
Everything on this bag is hand stitched with saddle stitches.
At this point I can finish the edges for the pockets.
180 grit sandpaper and slicking with tokonole cream + 1000 grit sandpaper and another slicking with tokonole turned out great.
To make the lids look better, I will stitch all around the edges after stitch grooving and bevelling.
That was a lot of stitches but the look is totally worth the effort.
The male parts of the clasps can finally be added as well.
I also added this website’s address to the backside with a 3D printed stamp and the fly press.
Now I can just check the bag in case I forget the address to this site…
At this point all the things has been done that requires access to the inside of the bag. Time to turn it into an actual bag!
After gluing the two halves together, I can trim the bottom of the bag as well. A lot of fine-tuning is required here as the vacuum formed shape is not perfectly symmetrical.
Preparation for the final stitches.
I’m using chicago screws to attach the strap.
This should be very strong. An additional leather spacer is added under the outermost screw to stabilise it.
All the remaining edges are finished with sandpaper and slicking with nokonole cream.
The strap is cut to the correct length and the bag is finally done!
Done! I’m very happy with how the bag turned out. It won’t be the last leather bag I’m making!

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